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Türk Fatih Tütak in frames

Anatolian cooking rebuilt course by course at Istanbul’s two-star kitchen, with the bottles poured alongside.

RestaurantIstanbul27 photos
A sommelier presenting a bottle of Yasasin brut sparkling wine over the tableA sommelier presenting a bottle of Yasasin brut sparkling wine over the table A tall glass of cloudy amber cocktail under a foam cap dusted with cinnamon, on a leather coasterA tall glass of cloudy amber cocktail under a foam cap dusted with cinnamon, on a leather coaster A pale green cocktail under a foam cap scattered with herbs and set with a dried lime wheelA pale green cocktail under a foam cap scattered with herbs and set with a dried lime wheel The bread course: a sesame-crusted roll in a bowl of buckwheat, a cylinder of cheese on a slate dish, olive oil and a wooden spreaderThe bread course: a sesame-crusted roll in a bowl of buckwheat, a cylinder of cheese on a slate dish, olive oil and a wooden spreader A hand holding a bottle of 7Bilgeler Khilon Sauvignon Blanc, its paper label torn and weatheredA hand holding a bottle of 7Bilgeler Khilon Sauvignon Blanc, its paper label torn and weathered A dish disguised as river stones, dark shapes set among grey pebbles in a stone bowlA dish disguised as river stones, dark shapes set among grey pebbles in a stone bowl A bruleed custard under a drift of grated white cheese and a curl of green herb in an oval dishA bruleed custard under a drift of grated white cheese and a curl of green herb in an oval dish A sommelier holding a bottle of Junmai Ginjo sake with a gold labelA sommelier holding a bottle of Junmai Ginjo sake with a gold label Checkerboard slices of tuna loin and belly in green olive oil on a pale ceramic plate, a glass of water alongsideCheckerboard slices of tuna loin and belly in green olive oil on a pale ceramic plate, a glass of water alongside A hand holding a bottle of Turasan Riesling from Zeynep Baglari in CappadociaA hand holding a bottle of Turasan Riesling from Zeynep Baglari in Cappadocia A quenelle of cream scattered with popcorn and crowned with caviar and a white flower, set in the hollow of a stone plateA quenelle of cream scattered with popcorn and crowned with caviar and a white flower, set in the hollow of a stone plate A diner seated beneath the large round wall disc painted with Anatolian rock-art figures and runic scriptA diner seated beneath the large round wall disc painted with Anatolian rock-art figures and runic script A coupe of deep red cocktail under a white foam cap dusted with dried berry powderA coupe of deep red cocktail under a white foam cap dusted with dried berry powder A hand holding a bottle of Chamlija Thracian white wine with a turquoise and gold labelA hand holding a bottle of Chamlija Thracian white wine with a turquoise and gold label The label of Lermonos Rindera 2022 held close, Okuzgozu and Bogazkere lettered in white on deep redThe label of Lermonos Rindera 2022 held close, Okuzgozu and Bogazkere lettered in white on deep red A hand holding a bottle of Porta Caeli Ament Cabernet FrancA hand holding a bottle of Porta Caeli Ament Cabernet Franc A hand holding a bottle of Kavaklidere Tatli Sert 2004, a fortified white made from Narince grapesA hand holding a bottle of Kavaklidere Tatli Sert 2004, a fortified white made from Narince grapes A whole cauliflower hung on twine inside a glass-fronted ageing cabinet reading 144A whole cauliflower hung on twine inside a glass-fronted ageing cabinet reading 144 A rolling rack of labelled preserving jars and bottles in the kitchen, a wicker basket resting on topA rolling rack of labelled preserving jars and bottles in the kitchen, a wicker basket resting on top A cook standing beside the rolling rack of labelled ferments and preserves in the kitchenA cook standing beside the rolling rack of labelled ferments and preserves in the kitchen A cook and a diner in the kitchen beside the glass-fronted ageing cabinet, a wall clock behind themA cook and a diner in the kitchen beside the glass-fronted ageing cabinet, a wall clock behind them A hand pointing at a whole turbot hanging in the dry-ageing room, more flatfish behind itA hand pointing at a whole turbot hanging in the dry-ageing room, more flatfish behind it Two glass-fronted cabinets hung with drying fish and flatbreads on wire racksTwo glass-fronted cabinets hung with drying fish and flatbreads on wire racks Whole fish hung to dry on a rail beside glass jars of preserved figs and dried chilliesWhole fish hung to dry on a rail beside glass jars of preserved figs and dried chillies Copper pans stacked on the kitchen pass under brass heat lamps, a cook working at the counter behindCopper pans stacked on the kitchen pass under brass heat lamps, a cook working at the counter behind Cooks working at the kitchen counter with wooden stands of cones and small bowls of garnishCooks working at the kitchen counter with wooden stands of cones and small bowls of garnish A cook presenting wafer cones on a wooden stand at the kitchen counter, copper vessels and jars of garnish alongsideA cook presenting wafer cones on a wooden stand at the kitchen counter, copper vessels and jars of garnish alongside A diner standing in front of the sunburst of forks and spoons mounted beside the entranceA diner standing in front of the sunburst of forks and spoons mounted beside the entrance A diner standing in front of the glass-fronted dry-ageing room, whole fish hanging on hooks behind herA diner standing in front of the glass-fronted dry-ageing room, whole fish hanging on hooks behind her