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Türk Fatih Tütak in frames

Anatolian cooking rebuilt course by course at Istanbul’s two-star kitchen, with the bottles poured alongside.

RestaurantIstanbul39 photos
A bottle of Yasasin sparkling wine held out across the tableYasasin, presented A cocktail under a thick foam cap on the timber bar counterA cocktail at the bar A pale green cocktail dressed with herbs, held above the counterGreen cocktail Small dishes and a cocoa-dusted bite set in stone bowls on the tableSnacks in stone A bottle of Khilon sauvignon blanc held up, its label facing outKhilon blanc A dish disguised as river stones, dark shapes set among grey pebbles in a stone bowlPebbles A dish under orange sauce and white crumb with herbs, in a pale bowlA first course A bottle of junmai ginjo sake presented over the tableJunmai ginjo A bottle of Turasan riesling held out, the vintage showingTurasan riesling Caviar over cream in a rough stone bowl, a flower set on topCaviar in stone A diner seated beneath the large round wall disc painted with Anatolian rock-art figures and runic scriptThe painted disc A cocktail under foam dusted deep red, seen from aboveDusted cocktail A bottle of Thracian white held across the tableThracian A bottle of Rindera held up in the dining roomRindera The Rindera label held close, its pink script filling the frameRindera, close A dark bottle of Ament cabernet turned to the labelAment A bottle of Tatli Sert from 2004 held up to the lightTatli Sert, 2004 A whole cauliflower hung on twine inside a glass-fronted ageing cabinet reading 144The ageing cabinet A rolling rack of labelled preserving jars and bottles in the kitchen, a wicker basket resting on topThe preserve trolley A hand pointing at a whole turbot hanging in the dry-ageing room, more flatfish behind itA turbot A glass case of drying fish and pastes on steel shelvesThe drying case Whole fish hung to dry on a rail beside glass jars of preserved figs and dried chilliesJars and dried fish Copper pans hanging under red light above the rangeCopper in the kitchen Cooks working at the kitchen counter with wooden stands of cones and small bowls of garnishThe kitchen at work A bottle of Yasasin presented at the tableThe Yasasin comes over A pale foamed cocktail in a tumbler on the wooden tableA cocktail, foamed A second foamed cocktail topped with a disc of herbsThe next one, herbed A dark bowl and small side dishes, with green oil, set out to startSmall things first A wine list printed on a heavy stone-textured page, held openThe wine list, cut in stone Grilled meat under a heap of grated cheese and green leavesBuried in cheese A bottle of junmai ginjo sake presented at the tableA junmai ginjo, next Squares of raw fish arranged in a chequer on a pool of green oilRaw fish, laid in squares A bottle of Turkish riesling from the 2022 vintage held up at the tableA Turkish riesling, 2022 A small dome topped with caviar and a single daisy on a grey plateCaviar and a daisy A deep red cocktail in a coupe under pale foam dusted with red powderRed, dusted A bottle of Thracian chardonnay held at the tableThe Thracian chardonnay A bottle with a pink Rindera label held up in front of the tableRindera, in pink A dark bottle of cabernet franc, its label close to the lensCabernet franc, close up A dark bottle from the 2004 vintage held up at the tableBack to 2004