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Restaurants

Which tables are worth it

The blog, sorted by the table rather than the room. Tasting menus, hotel dining rooms, and the beach shacks worth the taxi — how each one is booked, what to order, and whether I’d book it again.

Tasting menusHotel diningIsland tablesIs it worth it?

Start here — the five tables I get asked about most.

A mound of bright orange roe with a charred prawn tail arching out of it in a speckled black stone bowl
Restaurant

Bangkok

Sorn — three stars, and worth planning a trip around

A blowfish over the reef
Restaurant

New York City

Masa, the room that will not let you photograph it

The kitchen brigade at work behind the pass at Jônt
Restaurant

Washington, DC

Jônt, and the reservation scramble

A rolling rack of labelled preserving jars and bottles in the kitchen
Restaurant

Istanbul

TURK Fatih Tutak, a gem of an evening

Squid and a braised allium in a dark red sauce on a white plate with a blue glazed brushstroke
Restaurant

Barcelona

Alkimia — modern Catalan alchemy

The tasting menus

Bangkok · New York · Washington · Istanbul

Three stars, two stars, and the reservation scrambles — what the long menus actually deliver once you’re sitting down.

Eating in the hotel

Hong Kong · Bangkok · Mexico · Tokyo

The dining rooms you never have to leave the lobby for — and whether they beat the city outside.

Beach shacks and island tables

Turks & Caicos · Fiji · Bahamas · Hawaii

The plastic-chair institutions that beat the resort restaurant — and the ones that don’t.

Is it actually worth it?

The honest verdict

Where the long menus earned the journey — and where the dining room downstairs would have done just as well.